A sugary sweet fragrance cuts through the crisp air – not beer, not wine – but a seasonal swill of glugwein, which seems the perfect word for this drink, German or not.
Like many of the faces in the crowd, the grog has a rosy shine in the mug and reflects the merriment of the Christmas season.
My son has wandered up ahead of me, across the ancient cobblestones, and waits in line to get a cup. My husband is eyeing the bratwurst on sticks.
For me, I simply stand and look up at the stringed lights, blurring and spinning. Far out beyond this small circle of my vision is a cold, German nightscape and we are many miles from home.
The steaming cup my son brings to me is a real ceramic one that we are allowed to re-fill and return throughout the boozy night.
A small detail – but somehow it signifies a larger sentiment from a bygone time when folks offered wassail on the honor system.

As ex-pats we have entered a wonderland of good cheer, almost like time travelers posed under a self-contained dome, something like a snow globe.
My brain shakes the snow globe and the snow flurries and falls, and finally settles.
It is 1973 and I am 10 years old, living in West Virginia, and it is Christmas Eve.
My grandparents from upstate New York have come for their yearly visit and they are sleeping in my brother’s twin beds down the hall.
Which means he is camped out with me in my double bed. But I don’t mind.
We stay up late and listen to the little transistor radio he has smuggled under the covers. We tune the dial to pick up The Guardsman’s Snoopy vs. The Red Baron, a song we just can’t get enough of, and we laugh and sing along to Alvin and the Chipmunks singing carols in their funny, high squeaks.
And even though we are beyond the age of believing in Santa, there is a magical quality to the night. For me, it is mostly that I am with my brother. He is a teenager now, and I don’t often get to be close to him.
He has strung big-bulbed Christmas lights all over my bedposts for me – he was always like that – coming up with the good ideas and thoughtfully letting me in on them.
In this scene he is young and alive and full of wild dreams. And there is no place for motorcycle accidents or chronic pain, or addictions or jail time, it’s just me and him in our pajamas.
I shake the snow globe again.
I see my mom in her plaid wool maxi-dress, worn with a creamy, ivory blouse, and an apron over the whole ensemble. She manages the kitchen, the elaborate Christmas Eve meal. She’s a perfectionist, a stickler for the details and I stay out of her way.
Anyway, I’m sixteen and kind of tired of the whole routine, but not ready to give it up just yet. Still I itch to escape the rectory and to ditch the Midnight Mass.
My boyfriend comes over and we finish off my parents’ wine. We make it to the communion rail a bit tipsy, just in time to add the Blood of Christ to top things off.
Looking back, I see how my mom and I were always so different and truthfully, it will be many years until we grow close.

I shake the snow globe again.
I am in bed with my husband, trying to sleep on my side and not on my back. My belly is huge and the baby rests quietly in a cradle of ribs and muscle and fluid. In two weeks she will be born.
And I am not afraid, because I am 27 years old, and in the way of that age, I am confident. I believe that my body is a safe haven for my child and that the short distance from that nest out into my arms – and then out to the wider world – is something I can do pretty easily.
I will welcome my daughter into a safe, loving home. A peaceful place.
And now my two babies are adults and I have failed in a basic promise. I’ve tried to protect them, but what world have they inherited?
I shake the snow globe.
It is a balmy North Carolina afternoon and our family of four is walking the perimeter of a pond. The water is brown and murky and has logs and debris (even a deer carcass) sticking up from the depths. But the walk is pretty – the pines are sweet scented and there are geese flocked to one side.
The kids are in college and it’s been a struggle to assemble everyone. We are picking our Christmas tree, a tradition I love, but this year feels different. My Mom is gone, after a long-term diagnosis of cancer.
My kids are amazing but if I’m honest, I’m not sure who they actually are. I can’t stay up with their digital world; I can’t even keep track of their conversation.
And I worry about what memories they will have of me when I’m gone.
I shake the globe again.
Christmas Day and my husband and my son and I are sitting on lawn chairs in the backyard. It is an unseasonable 70 degrees outside. There are no decorations, no tree, no crowded table with coffeecake and stollen. No stockings. No cheeseball with Wheat Thins and no craft beer.
I want to re-shake the globe.
I want to transport back to that original scene in Germany
But no, here we are. There are no bustling crowds, no toasting with glugwein, no hugs even – never mind kisses beneath the mistletoe.
It is a pandemic and the reality of illness doesn’t fit into a snowy, nostalgic scene. The globe is supposed to hold us all close, protect us in an idyllic place and time. To reflect a joy, a poignance, a promise of what is possible.
But we all know that outside this globe is a place of poverty and war, violence and famine. And we know that even the bubble of atmosphere itself is overheated and volatile. There is no pure, crystalline stage left on which to play out our memories.
And so I grasp the globe and wonder what will be this year.
The world has slowed; we’ve been shaken and sobered.
During these past months I have spent time with my son; he’s taught me how to make kombucha and sourdough bread. He’s built me a chicken coop and taught me to tend honeybee hives.
I can’t remember having this much focused time with him.
He and I have had hours to watch episodes of Succession and Premier League soccer, and to eat take -out dinners on the front porch swing. I’ve watched him patiently and methodically build a bed out of local cherry wood.
And I’ve been able to see him up close, clear eyed, with no filter.
His jaunty stride as he unexpectedly runs past me on the Duke trail, where he calls out nice pace! with his shameless flattery.
His face lit up when he writes his stories on his laptop, late at night in the kitchen. Glowing partly from the digital screen, but partly from his own energy and Lewisness.
Later I watch him pack his stuff and head to New York City, carefully wrapping baby succulents, sourdough starter and a full kombucha jug, by hand, in blankets, for the long drive. My heart melts.
Tonight I picture him in Manhattan, bundled up in a down coat, walking on the streets with no gloves. Underneath the skyscrapers that reach to the black sky – no stars, just dirty city air. No sparkling dome, but maybe a dusting of snow.
Next week he’s back for the holidays.
And today, I turn the globe upside down, yet again, and shake it. And I watch the flakes of white settle gently over the magnolia trees and Carolina pines in my imagined scene.
And I listen as the tiny music box plays a tinkly version of Silent Night.
And I wonder.
